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06 November 2025

603: He Built a $1B Beauty Brand Selling $1 Makeup

4Frameworks
12Insights

Frameworks in this episode

Insights & moments

The myth-busts, hot takes, explainers, and tools worth keeping.

Hot Take· 1

Hot Take46:00

Sharma says educated beauty customers changed the standard

Sharma argues that social platforms have made beauty customers substantially more informed about ingredients and product claims. In his view, clean and sustainable positioning has become table stakes, while efficacy, innovation, honest conversation, and close customer listening now matter more; these are his market observations, not established medical conclusions.

  • Sharma attributes increased customer knowledge partly to social platforms
  • He characterizes clean and sustainable positioning as expected rather than optional
  • He sees efficacy and innovation as major competitive themes
  • He says brands must listen and speak truthfully to informed customers

the biggest trend is just 46 00 consumer education

Joey Sharma · 46:00

Now it's a conversation with

Joey Sharma · 46:30
#consumer education#beauty trends#social media#trust

Explainer· 1

Explainer05:00

What the first $125,000 cosmetics test actually bought

Sharma says the team made a $125,000 initial inventory order spanning 13 categories and 67 SKUs across eyes, lips, and face. He explains that raw materials were generally not the main expense and that the company removed spokesperson and large marketing costs to make the opening price point possible.

  • The initial test covered 13 categories and 67 SKUs
  • The inventory commitment was about $125,000
  • Component materials and finishes could change costs materially
  • The company stripped out major marketing and spokesperson spending

we placed our initial order for $125,000 of product

Joey Sharma · 06:00
#startup costs#inventory#product launch

Story· 7

Story01:30

How family experience led Sharma from apparel to beauty

Sharma traces his entrepreneurial outlook to an immigrant family in which his father built an apparel manufacturing business from the ground up. Wanting to create a brand rather than continue private-label manufacturing, he and his family studied fast-growing dollar-store retailers and found a gap between inconsistent closeouts and low-quality unbranded cosmetics.

  • His father's business supplied private-label apparel rather than owning a consumer brand
  • The team selected a retail sector before choosing the exact product line
  • Dollar-store cosmetics appeared split between closeouts and low-quality unbranded offers

we identified a sector before we identified a product line

Joey Sharma · 03:30
#origin story#market research#beauty
Story08:30

Retail rejection pushed the brand into e-commerce

Dollar General and Family Dollar rejected the proposed quality cosmetics line, so the team pursued magazine editors instead. When Glamour wanted to feature a concealer but needed a way for readers to buy it, the company added a $5,000 shopping cart to its site; a later Daily Candy mention produced 400 orders in a day, according to Sharma.

  • The original target retailers declined the line
  • Editors tried the products before learning the $1 price
  • A magazine feature created the need for online checkout
  • A brief Daily Candy mention produced an early order surge

all of Walgreens by next week next month or you open a website

Joey Sharma · 09:30

we had 400 orders

Joey Sharma · 10:30
#ecommerce#public relations#rejection#distribution
Story15:30

A false acquisition rumor triggered 192,000 orders

Sharma recounts an unexplained email claiming Bloomingdale's was buying the company and raising its prices. Orders surged far beyond available inventory, eventually reaching about 192,000, so he flew to China and helped create an overseas pick-and-pack process that fed labeled parcels into the US postal system after roughly six weeks.

  • Sharma says the company did not know who started the rumor
  • The team returned from a holiday to find 20,000 orders and the surge continued
  • Family members joined warehouse packing efforts
  • The company built a China-based fulfillment process for roughly 192,000 orders
  • Sharma says annual sales rose from a $2 million forecast to $8 million

we had 20,000 orders

Joey Sharma · 17:00

you either figure this out or we just pack 18 30 up shop and go home

Joey Sharma's father · 18:00
#viral growth#fulfillment#operations#crisis
Story22:00

How Target and a $6 primer expanded the price architecture

After a small Target trial, a holiday end cap materially exceeded the retailer's weekly sales forecast and led to a four-foot space in 660 stores. Target requested products above $1, while a separate online primer test sold out in six weeks; Sharma says these results showed customers would accept higher prices when the brand preserved extreme value.

  • A Target holiday end cap outperformed its weekly sales forecast
  • The result led to a four-foot assortment in 660 stores
  • The higher-priced Studio line used upgraded components and added benefits
  • A $6 face primer sold out online in six weeks
  • Sharma interpreted the response as support for extreme value rather than one fixed price

the customer spoke with her wallet

Joey Sharma · 27:30

as long as we stay true to extreme value no matter what the price point is

Joey Sharma · 27:30
#target#pricing#product validation#retail expansion
Story31:00

The failed L'Oreal deal that preceded the IPO

Sharma says L'Oreal withdrew from a planned acquisition at a very late stage, after an antitrust filing had been made. About a year later, TPG Growth acquired a majority stake and installed an experienced management team; Sharma credits the next two years with teaching him formal practices before the company listed in 2016 at a valuation above $1 billion.

  • The L'Oreal inquiry was inbound
  • L'Oreal passed after the transaction had reached a late regulatory stage
  • TPG Growth later acquired a majority stake
  • The incoming team introduced management meetings, training, SKU rationalization, margin work, and long-term goals
  • Sharma says the IPO priced at $23 per share above a $1 billion valuation

At the last minute L'Oreal called and said We're going to

Joey Sharma · 31:30

in hindsight, it was the best thing that really ever happened

Joey Sharma · 31:30
#acquisition#ipo#management#loreal
Story38:30

One day at home showed Sharma retirement was not for him

Between leaving the cosmetics company and acquiring the business that became Fit for Life, Sharma spent a day at home watching television until his children returned from school. He says the experience exposed how much he missed creating and driving value despite already having financial security.

  • The transition created an abrupt loss of daily purpose
  • Financial security did not make inactivity satisfying for him
  • The experience motivated him to return to building companies

I knew that retired life wasn't for me.

Joey Sharma · 39:00
#retirement#purpose#founder identity
Story41:00

A $1.2 million chargeback reversed the acquisition plan

The acquisition thesis for the Laura Geller portfolio called for leaning into Ulta and moving away from QVC. Sharma says a $1.2 million Ulta chargeback arrived on day two while QVC asked to deepen the relationship, prompting the team to reverse course and prioritize QVC instead.

  • The initial plan favored Ulta over QVC
  • A $1.2 million Ulta chargeback challenged that thesis immediately
  • QVC proactively asked how to grow the partnership
  • The team changed channels based on the new evidence
  • Sharma says the wider portfolio was approaching $500 million in annual sales

we actually switched paths

Joey Sharma · 42:00
#acquisitions#channel strategy#qvc#ulta

Takeaway· 3

Takeaway11:30

The retailer evidence that $1 makeup was incremental

Retailers initially feared that a $1 product would replace a higher-priced sale and reduce register revenue. Sharma says an H-E-B test repeatedly sold out and the buyer concluded that the products prompted impulse purchases and lifted the cosmetics department overall, giving the brand evidence for later retail pitches.

  • Retail buyers feared trading customers down from higher-priced products
  • The H-E-B spinner-rack test repeatedly sold out
  • The buyer described the sales as incremental rather than substitutive
  • Department-level lift became evidence for expansion

it's been proven that the ELF brand is incremental

Joey Sharma · 12:30

we're seeing a lift in the overall department

Joey Sharma · 12:30
#retail#category growth#impulse buying
Takeaway29:00

Why Sharma would have sold a smaller first stake

Sharma says the first transaction was emotionally and financially transformative, but clarifies that his hindsight concerns the percentage sold rather than the decision to sell. The company sold 49% for $35 million; he believes selling 20% or 30% could have achieved the same immediate aims while preserving more ownership.

  • The first transaction occurred in late 2010
  • Sharma describes it as the most personally impactful exit
  • The company sold 49% for $35 million
  • His stated regret is the size of the stake, not taking liquidity

I would have probably sold less the first time

Joey Sharma · 30:00

We sold 49% of the company for $35 million.

Joey Sharma · 37:30
#exit#equity#private equity#founder liquidity
Takeaway49:30

Do not evaluate an investment only by closing day

Sharma warns founders considering outside capital to look beyond the liquidity event and examine the operating life that follows it. He highlights role, compensation, long-term incentives, governance, and the shift from managing personal net income toward partner-defined financial measures as consequences that persist after the celebration.

  • Outside partners can add strategic perspective and governance
  • The founder's financial target may change after investment
  • Post-deal employment terms and incentives affect motivation
  • The operating arrangement lasts beyond the closing-day excitement
  • Founders should assess what they will have to live with after the transaction

don't just think of the day you get the deal done, but think past that

Joey Sharma · 51:00

there's a day after the deal

Joey Sharma · 51:00
#outside capital#deal terms#governance#founder incentives